Aug 31, 2009

Ingredient Spotlight: Alpha Hydroxy Acids

Alpha Hydroxy Acids, sometimes referred to as AHA, have been in use for centuries. The great Egyptian beauty, Cleopatra was thought to have taken milk baths. Lactic Acid is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid found in milk which has exfoliating abilities.

AHA are thought to stimulate the formation of collagen in the skin. They are also thought to help even out skin tone and lessen discoloration through exfoliation. Which is just one reason AHA products may be good for men prone to ingrown hairs. They are also thought to thicken the skin which may help lessen the appearance of wrinkles and make the skin look firmer and more youthful, much like peptides are said to. AHA products also help with skin moisturization which helps the appearance of skin tremendously, dry skin looks older. Products containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids must have a certain concentration of AHAs and a certain PH or they will not exfoliate. If you're unsure if the product you're using has the proper amount of AHA and the correct PH range, email the manufacturer and ask.

A word of warning and this is extremely important, you MUST use sunscreen every single day without fail when using any products containing AHA and for at least two weeks afterward as they make the skin more sensitive and more prone to burning and damage from the sun. Sunscreen use, everyday, is still being recommended. Wrinkles are thought to be caused from sun exposure more than they are caused by aging so sunscreen is thought to help prevent wrinkles.

Some people are unable to use scrubs to exfoliate as they are too rough on their delicate, sensitive skin. I cannot use scrubs, they cause me redness, soreness and irritation. Likewise, some people are unable to use products with AHAs as their skin is too sensitive. It is best to take it easy and see how your skin reacts to it before applying it all over and risking irritation or worse. Doing an allergy test prior to use will help you know whether your skin can tolerate the use of products containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids.

Looking at product labels you may see Alpha Hydroxy Acids listed as Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Malic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Gluconic Acid, Citric Acid and Tartaric Acid. Additionally you may see Urea listed; it too has exfoliating and moisturizing properties. It is most recently being touted in Estee Lauder's Good Skin Lumecin Overnight Brightening Gluco-Protein Treatment. This product is sold exclusively at Kohl's and retails for $44.50.

One of my favorite products with AHA is Mastey de Paris Velvetant Skin Renewal Complex which can be used on the face and body. Mastey claims it renews the skin and lessens the appearance of wrinkles while increasing skin moisture. I have found it helpful with breakouts and evening out my skin tone. I generally use it during winter and only at night to help lessen the freckles from summer. Mastey de Paris Velvetant Skin Renewal Complex retails for $18.00 and is available in a 3.38 ounce tube available on their website and some finer salons and spas. This product contains mixed fruit acids as well as Urea. I use Mastey de Paris Moiste Facial Moisturizer during the day, every day, since it contains SPF. Mastey de Paris Moiste Facial Moisturizer comes packaged in a 3.38 ounce tube and retails for $28.00.

Used properly, and with a reasonable amount of care, Alpha Hydroxy Acids can be very useful in helping to revitalize and reduce the look of photoaged skin. As always, if pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your doctor before using any new products; our skin absorbs most of what we put on it. If you have any medical conditions, sensitive skin or other issues, talk to your doctor before using any skin care products. He or she can help you decide what is best for your skin.

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